Friday, December 30, 2011

Airless paint spraying

Airless paint spraying is quick, easy and clean. We can save you thousands of euros. Call Eric +34965846620 e-mail eric@airlesspaintspraying.eu www.business-on-video.com/aps

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Monday, December 19, 2011

Reconditioned Wagner 0515000T Spray Tech 2,750 PSI Paint Crew Sprayer

!±8± Reconditioned Wagner 0515000T Spray Tech 2,750 PSI Paint Crew Sprayer

Brand : Wagner | Rate : | Price :
Post Date : Dec 20, 2011 07:43:01 | N/A


The Wagner Spray Tech Paint Crew paint sprayer is specifically designed to spray most architectural coatings including thick (un-thinned) exterior latex paints. The Paint Crew offers the same quality spray pattern as high-priced contractor units, but it's easier to use and more affordable, making it an ideal tool for the do-it-yourselfer. Whether you're painting just the fence or your entire home, the Paint Crew is simple to operate and easy-to-clean for years of trouble-free operation.

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Thursday, December 15, 2011

Painting the Exterior of Your Home - Do it Yourself, Or Hire a Professional?

!±8± Painting the Exterior of Your Home - Do it Yourself, Or Hire a Professional?

The first step in a quality exterior painting job, or in any painting project for that matter, is start with a clean surface. This means that you will need to power wash. You probably will need to rent a power washer - something you can do at any major hardware or tool rental store. You will need a ladder to powerwash, depending on the height of your home you will need either an extension or step ladder. (or both)...you can rent a powerwasher for about 0 a day. You can rent ladders for about a week.

Once you have all of this equipment you should power wash every surface that you plan to paint, making sure to use proper technique so as not to leave wand marks due to the extreme water pressure. It is good to use a watered down mixture of bleach and sodium tri-phosphate to kill and prevent mildew and mold and to wash away chalking. Often people ask, what is chalking? This is that chalk like substance that sticks to your hand when you touch the unwashed parts of your home, that is most often present on homes that have not been painted in awhile. A photo of chalking on a hand is below. Chalking is always the color of the paint job and is the paint properties breaking down from sunlight.

To repeat: One of the most important steps in painting is to clean the working surface; otherwise, paint cannot stick to the dirty surface and will peel within a year. You can hire a professional painter or power washing contractor to wash a home usually for under 0.

Always be safe on ladders and roofs, it is very easy for someone to slip and fall. When power washing there is no need to get right up close to the surface, usually eight feet away, or so, is fine. Finally, it is very important to allow the surface to completely dry off, allow at least a day for the washed area to try, longer if there is rain or high humidity.

Once you have allowed the paint surface to dry you can begin preparing the work surface to receive paint. First you need to caulk. It is important to use only siliconized latex caulk. It must have latex in it and say "paintable" on tube. Buy color caulk to match your paint color if you plan on only doing one coat of paint, but white colored caulk should be fine if you are planning on two coats of paint and is usually cheaper per tube than colored caulk. Make sure to caulk all gaps in the wood and joints. Do not caulk wood to stucco.

The next step in prepping your painting surface is to scrape, removing all of the loose and failing paint, down to the bare wood if possible. You should then tape and lay down tarps in the area where you are standing to paint first, and then put a coat of primer on all of the surfaces you plan to paint. Primer color should be chosen according to what color you are painting (it is not always recommended to use white for darker colors). Make sure to cover everything but landscape bushes and plants. Putting tarps on bushes and plants can actually kill them due to the tarps' weight and the heat trapped around the plants, under the tarps.

Set Up

Set up is the next part of the job, though may already have done this before you even started your prep work. Once you have your paint color picked out you will need to measure how many square feet of surface, you will be painting. Once you have figured out how many square feet there are to paint, divide that number by three hundred; that is around how many gallons of paint you will need for the first coat.

It is best to stick with a national paint store brand. One tip is to try not to go to the paint store on the weekends; they are always packed on the weekend with other do-it-yourselfers. If you go in the evening or in the day, during the week, they will likely have more time for a one-on-one consultation. It is usually best to ask for the store manager, he will have more experience and be able lead you the right direction, as far as what kind of paint and primer you should get, as well as help you with color, if you need it.

Tools You Will Need To Paint Your Home

o Scraper

o Case of caulk (you can return unused tubes)

o Caulking gun

o Masking tape

o Cheap tarps

o Your paint

o An extra empty 5 gallon bucket with lid (usually or free if you ask nicely)

o A bucket grid

o A 9 inch roller frame

o A roller nap

o A brush (2.5 inch sash is best for beginners)

o A bucket hook (for hooking your paint pal to the ladder)

When purchasing your paint, buy the amount you determined from your square footage, minus about three gallons. You will always need to go back to the paint store, so don't overbuy. Once you purchase tinted paint it is non-returnable and good paint costs about per gallon for do-it-yourself pricing

o Always start at the top left and work your way to the right. Painting in direct sunlight makes things more difficult when you are doing the work by yourself because it dries more quickly and, of course, is hot and bright

o Usually you will want to start on the front of the home. That is the toughest side of the home to paint because it is the most decorative

o If you are painting a home with siding, make sure to paint each siding slat all of the way across, then start back at the left on the next slat, like writing a line of text. This is a lot of work, but it allows for minor differences in paint color from can to can (which, though it is not supposed to happen, does). In the end, though it makes the job more difficult, it will give you a more even looking color because the divisions in the slats will hid any minor color differences

o Try not to overlap a wet edge of paint over a dry edge, this is called flashing, and it leaves overlap marks once everything is dry. This will happen especially with only one coat applications. This is the most common error made by do-it-yourselfers. Remember, two coats are always best! Not only do two coats look a lot better, but the paint will last twice as long

o Your dry time will vary, taking in to account weather and humidity. Usually two to four hours after applying the paint, it will be dry to the touch and your second coat can be applied. On hot, dry days, the drying time is even shorter

o Professionals figure materials will usually be about 20% - 30% of the cost of a paint job....this is just an fyi for you when pricing materials and labor

Spraying

A professional can spray a perfect finish, which fills cracks and holes; it also has a nice even coat. You cannot. It is much tougher than what it seems to get a nice even coat of paint with an industrial sprayer. To rent a sprayer, it cost about per day. It will speed up your painting by at least four times. If you choose to spray, you'll need to watch out for overspray, you do not want to accidentally spray your roof, cars or neighbors. It can be a very costly mistake. We do not recommend buying the cheaper Wagner series of paint sprayers at your local hardware. It is best to rent the professional model.

Spraying is best for painting big areas on your house like aluminum siding, wood siding, stucco, and so on. It is not for trim areas like your eaves and fascia, doors, frames, or garage doors. Only a professional can do this. Stick with a roller and brush for your trim areas...it will save you time, reduce headaches and you have less risk of overspray damage.

So How Much Can I Save by Painting Myself?

You will save about 65% of a professionals painting quote if you do it yourself. However studies have shown it will take a DIY 6x the amount as a professional. They have the tools, equipment, and experience.

Ask yourself these two questions as you weigh the pros and cons:

o Do you want your evenings and weekends to be spent painting you home?

o Is it worth the savings to you?

Safety

People fall of roofs and ladders every day. Is your home higher than two stories? Don't paint that section, it's not worth it. Falling more than 16 feet can be lethal. Hire professionals to paint the higher sections of your home. However, people are often surprised by how much they DO NOT SAVE when they choose to paint the lower section themselves. You should be able to get a quote for entire house painting and just second story painting, in order to budget for this.

Most falls occur when ladders are on a road or a slicker surface like a driveway, patio, or concrete walkway. Make sure you tie down your ladder, that way it cannot kick out from underneath you, and you can paint in relative safety.

The Final Product
Often homeowners are happy with their final product. Others are not and they end up hiring a professional to finish the project. Usually, if you are looking to sell your home in the near future, a do-it-yourself paint job will be critiqued by a potential buyer or realtor. But there is satisfaction and savings in painting your home by yourself, when done properly. Hopefully, this information helped you in your decision.

Conclusion
So, if you like being outside, you are not afraid of heights, you can be safe, you have a lot of free time on your hands, you like to save money and will be satisfied with your final product, then you are a do-it-yourselfer

If getting injured is not an option, you like things perfect, you like your free time, you are afraid of heights, you want to know that your paint will last, you like having a warranty, and want the best paints for the surface of your home, then hire a professional.


Painting the Exterior of Your Home - Do it Yourself, Or Hire a Professional?

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Saturday, December 3, 2011

Wagner 518080 Control Spray Max HVLP Sprayer

!±8± Wagner 518080 Control Spray Max HVLP Sprayer


Rate : | Price : $99.95 | Post Date : Dec 03, 2011 17:02:38
Usually ships in 24 hours

Wagner HVLP Control Spray Max Paint Sprayer. From Wagner Spray Tech, this professional sprayer uses high volume/low pressure air power technology to atomize materials into fine particles. This results in a professional finish with virtually no overspray.. It sprays materials in patterns from 1/2" to 12" wide with optimum control and precision making it superior to brushes and spray cans for fine finish work.. It features: variable air pressure control, three spray pattern, adjustable flow control, 20' hose, professional grade metal cup and large 1-1/2 Qt. plastic cup. Provides low overspray with maximum control. Sprays from stains and sealers to interior latex.

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Saturday, November 19, 2011

Wagner PrimaSprint Airfluid from Yorkshire Spray Services Ltd - Visit www.yss.co.uk

Increased transfer rates (application efficiency), due to the optimised process of the FlexNozzle flat jet atomising system, for the widest variety of coating demands in practical applications. Homogenised and soft powder cloud, for more uniform film thicknesses and optimised application of powder on the work-piece. Optimised electrostatics, for optimal powder charging in conjunction with the integrated high voltage cascade for up to 100 kV output power. Safety Power. New Safety technology for the reliable processing of standardised Metallic and UDS powder paints plus, of course, all standard powder paints. Certified for Zone 21 (internal coating). Power Lock. New System for the reliable and close positioning of all nozzle components and their functional cross-over's. Simple assembly and disassembly of the wear parts and of the whole nozzle system. Basic equipment includes: 2 flat jet nozzles of the FlexNozzle system plus a complete, newly developed, round jet nozzle system with proven atomising air technology. Adaptable Corona Star Set in conjunction with the newly integrated gun hook on the PEM-C4-Ergo HiCoat. Untiring and ergonomic work: the PEM-C4-Ergo weighs only 504g and thus just fewer than 3% less than the comparable models.

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Tuesday, November 15, 2011

How to Power Wash Your Home

!±8± How to Power Wash Your Home

Before you decide to paint your home, you may want to consider power washing it. Many people power wash their home before they are going to paint it, in hopes that they will be able to remove any dirt or debris from their home. What's the use of hiring a company to like Westfield NJ Painting to paint your home if you're simply going to cover up the existing dirt with a layer of paint?

The good news is if you don't understand the basis of power washing your home NJ power washing would be more then obliged to assist you. Bringing a company out to your home that is loaded with a pool of professionals will show you what goes into power washing so later on if you decide to paint your home again, you can power wash your own home and save the paint crew time and save you a few extra dollars as well.

If you decide to perform the power wash on your home by yourself, we have some useful tips that can guide you through the process, this way you can avoid any mistakes during the power washing process.

1. Locate a power washer- You can find a power washer at most local department stores as well as Home Depot or Lowe's. You do not need to buy the washer many stores will allow you to rent the washers for a number of consecutive days. Since you are only going to use the washer once, it's wise to simply rent it then to buy it.

2. Find a ladder that can reach to the peak of your home- You are trying to power wash your whole home, not just the middle of it. The washer is extremely powerful, so you don't want to have a ladder that is too short. If the ladder is too short you will aim above your head therefore risking the chances of you falling off the ladder.

3. Setting up your power washer- You want to ensure that all hoses are connected correctly, and is hooked up to water supply such as a hose. Test the washer before you climb up to the peak of the ladder with it.

4. Place your ladder against your home- Always start from the highest peak of your home and slowly work your way down, spraying from left to right as you climb down the rungs of the ladder.

5. Keep your distance- Make sure your sprayer stays at least 12 inches away from the home at all times. Power washers often are set to blast water so hard it literally chips the paint right off of your home.

6. Complete all 4 sides of the home- Do one side at a time, it does not matter what side you start on as long as you properly perform the previous steps with each side.

Power washing your home can actually seem more like a fun past time then a chore. If you decide to purchase your power washer, many people use it for many household things, such as cleaning their cars or washing off their driveways.


How to Power Wash Your Home

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Tuesday, November 8, 2011

Interior Painting

!±8± Interior Painting

If you have finally gotten around to taking on the task of interior painting that you've been putting off for months (or years), here are some quick tips to help you get it done a little quicker and easier. This post will cover walls and previously stained areas such as baseboards or casings.

If you are going to paint that ugly brown stained trim, I suggest you start with that before you paint the walls. The reason for this, is that you won't have to worry about getting any paint onto the walls because you are going to painted over it. Now, first of all, don't bother with trying to strip, sand, or bleach out any trim that has been previously stained. This would take way too much time, it is way too much work, and stain penetrates wood to such a point sometimes that it is almost impossible to get off unless you sand the heck out of it and deface the wood essentially damaging it. So once something has been stained, either you are going to paint over it, or you are going to have to replace it all. There is no reason why you cannot paint over something that has been previously stained providing that you take the necessary steps to do it correctly. If you just paint over stain, the stain will eventually soak through turning your paint job brown, and also the paint will peel very easily.

So, how do we go about painting over previously stained wood? First of all, using about a 200 grit sandpaper, sand off all the "shine", or gloss that is on the wood. In some cases, there might not be an gloss, but usually there is. You don't have to sand the heck out of it, you can even do it by hand. Just lightly sand until the gloss is dulled. It is an easy task. Once finished, get a wet sponge and wipe the dust off the trim.

Next, and this is the absolute most important step: prime the wood. I wouldn't use any other primer than Bulls Eye water-based Interior Primer. This stuff is awesome. You can brush it on, it covers very well, and it dries super quickly. You will notice that once it dries, it isn't very easy to scratch any of it off of the surface with your fingernail. This primer grips the wood surface far superior than anything I have ever used and provides an excellent sealer so the top coat of paint that you are going to use won't have stain soak through it. It also provides a good surface for the paint to adhere to as well. Once everything is primed and has completely cured for at least several hours, or even a full day, lightly sand the surface with a very high grit sandpaper. This will smooth out the brush marks so they won't show through the top coat.

You'll still be able to see the brush strokes after you are done sanding, but they will be smoothed out so that they will hide well underneath the top coat of paint. The next thing you want to do is mask off any carpeting or flooring that is beneath the baseboards if you are going to be painting those. The best way to do this is to buy some paper at Home Depot and tape the paper onto the floor and tuck it into the carpet edge with a butter or puddy knife as best as you can. This should be sufficient enough to paint baseboards and avoid getting paint onto the carpet. Or, you can tape the paper to the carpet edge and tuck the tape into the carpet edge as best as possible. Although, I have never painted anything in my life where I haven't gotten paint on something. But it can be cleaned if you get to it quickly enough.

Now, for the top coat. I recommend using a satin oil-based paint for the top coat. If you use a fine brush and go slow, you can achieve a good satin finish. Once the first coat is finished, you will need to lightly sand the top coat to reduce brushmarks, and then apply a second coat. Repeat again with a third coat if necessary. The reason for this is that it is hard to achieve a good satin smooth paint finish with no brush marks. But taking your time. Sanding and then re-coating can give good results provided that you use an oil based paint. Now, to make this process fly, and to achieve almost professional looking results, if you don't mind spending , I suggest you get yourself a Wagner HVLP Control Sprayer. These babies are awesome. They will spray a nice looking coat very quickly with near professional results. And you shouldn't have to spray any more than 2 coats. You can also spray the primer on with this as well to make it all go very quick. And if you use a sprayer, for trim, you can go with a high gloss latex paint if you desire. It still ends up looking pretty good, almost as good as the oil-based paint.

Next, you are ready to roll the walls. Want to make this go a little quicker? Instead of edging the area near the ceiling and trim, go ahead and roll the walls first with a paint roller. Get as close to the trim and ceiling as you can with the roller without getting paint on them. Now, the work has been cut out for you. Because once you are done rolling, you can see how much edge work you need to do. Assuming the trim work has been completed, use a low stick masking tape to tape over the trim so that you do not get wall paint on the trim. Next, get a high quality sharp edged brush, and paint the edges near the ceiling and trim until it meets up with the areas that you rolled. Painting in this order seems to go a lot quicker. And if you are careful, you don't need to do much masking on the floor. Just lay some plastic wherever your roller pan is at, and go to it.

And that's it. You just saved yourself 0 - 00 from having to pay someone to paint it for you. Using the methods above makes it painless, and rather fun to know how much money you are saving. It only takes about 3 days to perform, only working a few hours each day. All of the time is taken in allowing the paint to dry and cure for trim masking and second top coats. Meanwhile, you go and do something else with your day while the paint dries.

So when it comes to stained wood, don't forget the Bulls Eye Water Based Primer. Do not use any other primer. It's great stuff. And I highly recommend spending for a Wagner HVLP sprayer. It can be used indoors, delivers a finish that is almost as good as a 00 professional sprayer, makes the job go 10 times quicker, and you'll have it to use again and again. When it comes to do-it-yourself paint projects, the Wagner was the best thing I had ever bought. For example, I had a lot cabinets in my kitchen that I had paid someone to professionally paint a satin cottage white. This guy did a good job and used a high quality professional sprayer to deliver a smooth oil based satin finish just like what is seen new homes. However, I was missing a couple of cabinet doors that the previous homeowner had removed in the process of turning the home into a fixer-upper. So, I had to have some new doors made and were duplicated to look like the cabinet doors that were originally present.

Anyways, the painter wasn't able to paint them because they were still in the shop being made. So, once I got them back, I primed, and then sprayed two coats of oil-based cottage white paint onto them with my wagner. They turned out great and almost matched the finish performed by the professional painter. The only way you can tell the difference is to examine each door very closely and feel with your hand. Both are smooth finishes, but the professionally painted doors have somewhat of a "thicker" finish or feel to them. But standing two feet away from the cabinets, one cannot tell at all which doors were painted with the Wagner and which ones were professionally. Basically, unless you told someone, no one could tell the difference at all. Even if you told them, it is still hard to pick out which doors I painted with the Wagner. It takes a sharp eye to recognize the differences in the smooth finish. In fact, some might even argue that the finish that the Wagner put on is better. Definitely a good investment.


Interior Painting

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